Avon falling

avon_300It’s Sunday morning and something was just torpedoed through my letter box, landing with a loud thump on the mat. It can’t be any ‘proper’ post because it’s Sunday and it’s the morning, neither of which are times when Royal Mail employees visit the Twilight Zone. Ergo, must be junk mail. Junk mail is not allowed here – this is clearly stipulated on the notice stuck on the front of the door. This is not because I’m a grumpy old woman (although I am), it’s because there are no recycling facilities and only a fortnightly bin collection so I don’t want excess rubbish. I rush to the door in order to throw the unwanted goods back at the delivery person. It’s a plastic-wrapped Avon catalogue.

There was a time, many moons ago, when the monthly arrival of a new Avon catalogue was a thing of joy; something to mull over for a good and happy hour. How we loved those little jars of perfumed cream – will it be exotic Topaz or sensual Occur or light-hearted Honeysuckle this time? Can we afford a bigger pot of Timeless skin softener? Dare we purchase more skin-so-soft body oil and risk the next person in the bathroom slipping on the slimy residue despite vigorous cleaning of the bath? The memories flood back, accompanied by images of the various sweet-smelling Avon ladies that followed each other down the years.

I open the door in readiness to chase the glamorous 2013 model down the road, perhaps even get a free sample for my effort. A breathless ancient being is perched on my wall, bent double. Her hair – what there is of it – has been dyed and bleached beyond recognition of any colour known to man or woman. She wears a flimsy blue tie-dyed blouse and a pair of shorts and is leaning against a walking stick. I pop my catalogue into her trolley bag and enquire after her well-being. ‘Bloody sciatica’, she responds and I get chapter and verse of the duration of said complaint, the useless doctor, ineffective medication and would it be alright if she rested awhile on the wall. It’s her husband’s round she’s currently doing – he’s too ill to do it himself. She’s got her own to do afterwards. To my mind, this seems more than a little optimistic. ‘Can’t you just go home and have a rest’, I ask? ‘I’ll crawl on to number 46’, the Avon lady decides, ‘then I’ll phone him and he’ll just have to get out of his bloody sick bed and come and get me’.

I can’t do anything to help so I wish her well. I don’t know what any of this means really except that if she and her unseen spouse are so old and decrepit, it seems a sorry state of affairs to be forced into such a business to make a few pennies on a Sunday morning.

The open road

toadMost of the passengers are already aboard when the driver arrives to silently count heads. This he does several times: up and down the aisle, seemingly confused although he says nothing before leaving the coach and disappearing. At five o clock he re-embarks with news of a diversion. ‘Well, they’ve said we’ve got to go to Ammersmif now. Ammersmif! Apparently there’s a party waiting at Ammersmif. If yoove got a bag on the seat yood better move it cos there’s not going to be any room for bags when we get to Ammersmif.’ The driver starts his engine and we rumble out of Victoria and resume reading our free copies of the Evening Standard.

‘My name’s Pauwl’, shouts Paul. ‘If you want anyfing yoo can shout Pauwl or geezer or oi. Now I’m doing the safety stuff. I’ll have to do it again when we get to Ammersmif for the next party but we aint there yet so I’m doing it now. At the back of the coach is an emergency exit. That’s the back door. At the front is anover one and that’s the front door. Opposite the back door is a box. That’s the toilet. In the roof are some over exits. Those are the windows. There are seat belts. Yoor sposed to wear em. Yoo want to know anyfing else shout Pauwl. Right, next stop Ammersmif. Ok?’

‘Ok’, we all agree in unison. The young man in the seat across the aisle from me is giving someone instructions on the phone. They seem to involve Ammersmif where we arrive in no time at all. The young man gets off the coach to have a word with Pauwl. He wants him to wait for his friend who is on the way to the coach stop.

‘He’s nearly here’, says the young man. The Ammersmif party have already boarded and Pauwl is anxious to get a move on.

‘Where is e then’ he demands? ‘Yoor mate, where is e?’ Pauwl goes round the front of the coach, steps into a stream of traffic and looks back down the road. ‘Is e that geezer running down the central reservation?’

The geezer running down the central reservation is indeed the missing passenger. ‘Good effort mate’, says Pauwl as we set off again. ‘Right’, shouts Pauwl, ‘next stop Wingwood, awright?’

‘Yes’, we all agree in unison. We know what’s coming next.

‘Right, for the benefit of the party wot got on at Ammersmif, I’m doing the safety announcement. I’ve done it once but now it’s got to be done again because we ad to stop at Ammersmif. At the back of the coach is an emergency exit. It’s called the back door…’

We leave London by some tedious route. The traffic is vile but eventually, like Mr Toad, we find ourselves on the more or less open road. An unpleasant smell pervades our area towards the front of the coach. We look around to see who might be the cause but there are no obvious suspects. The horrid smell is getting worse. It seems impossible that it can be emanating from a single person. I leave my seat and stumble forward to inform the driver.

‘Driver’, I say. No response. ‘Pauwl’, I shout and Pauwl swerves across two lanes narrowly avoiding becoming the cause of a major traffic incident. ‘There’s a nasty smell’. I begin.

‘Yoo wot’, he replies in a state of some confusion.

‘Your coach stinks’, I shout, whereupon, to my surprise, everyone else aboard shouts ‘yes, your coach stinks’. Everyone’s always waiting for someone to make the first move.

‘Is it the toilet’, shouts Pauwl? ‘Is it blocked?’

‘I don’t know and I’m not going to look’, I inform him.

‘Can yoo open the windows in the roof’, he asks? ‘Or shall I stop only we need to get to Wingwood?’

‘No, don’t stop’, we all shout together; ‘we want to get to Wingwood.’  I don’t like the sound of opening the windows in the roof. Weren’t they the emergency exits? A man in the front seat comes to my aid and together we open the roof window. Having been alerted to the fact that others were suffering from the nasty smell, I shout down to the back of the coach: ‘can you smell it down there?’

‘Yes’, they all agree and the man from the front seat traverses the length of the aisle to release the rear roof window. We continue.

‘Is it any better now’, shouts Pauwl? ‘I mean, I don’t know oos been driving this coach all day. I only took it on at Victoria and nobody told me about the toilets. Do yoo want me to stop or shall I look in them at Wingwood?’

‘It’s much better’, we all agree.

‘Next stop Wingwood then. Awright?’

‘Awright’, we respond in unison.

London calling

tubeUnderground, the dragon’s blinding eyes appear around the bend, wider and wider as the beast exits the tunnel with a frightening screech and intense roaring at such velocity to make it impossible to believe it will ever stop……………..which it does SUDDENLY

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And we rocked on to Electric Avenue not knowing that it really existed and was where all life passes amongst stalls flowing with exotic dresses and robes and accessories for the voluminous hair which can be purchased in the hair shop next door to those that compete to see which can provide the strangest looking fish and the freshest meat in the world and who can pile the highest pyramid of colourful fruits and vegetables accompanied by the loudest reggae music for those wearing the most outrageous costumes and the biggest hats to protect the widest hairstyles and the longest dreadlocks whilst dancing the oddest dance on the corner of other worlds

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I go to the loo in the Morpeth Arms at Millbank and, despite having yet to take the first alcohol of this day, find myself all at sea. Inside, the wooden floorboards become decking planks as I sway with the movement of the boat. I exit the loo, looking over my shoulder at the trick I might have missed. Back in the bar, I enquire whether the place is haunted and am pointed in the direction of a large television screen on the wall. It shows a picture of an empty stone cellar below my feet where, back in the day, chained convicts were housed whilst awaiting deportation to Australia. Today and every day the cellar is locked for safety. It houses a permanent live webcam to record the comings and goings of waterlogged ghosts.

mutual friend

The shudder was gone, and his gaze, which had come back to the boat for a moment, travelled away again. Wheresoever the strong tide met with an impediment, his gaze paused for an instant. At every mooring-chain and rope, at every stationery boat or barge that split the current into a broad-arrowhead, at the offsets from the piers of Southwark Bridge, at the paddles of the river steamboats as they beat the filthy water, at the floating logs of timber lashed together lying off certain wharves, his shining eyes darted a hungry look. After a darkening hour or so, suddenly the rudder-lines tightened in his hold, and he steered hard towards the Surrey shore. (Dickens: Our Mutual Friend)

We take a gentle journey from Millbank to Embankment. A speeding police boat overtakes us on its way to some unknown watery crime and once the waves and stomachs have settled, we overtake Symphony – a boat replete with suited and booted business types on a leisurely cocktail cruise. They are all men with the exception of one female at the rear who Leonie says is probably the stripper. Changing vessels at Embankment, we head off, once past Traitors’ Gate, at a speed to equal the underground dragons:

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WHOOSH past Butlers’ Wharf and all the other east end wharves that probably now house butlers in their expensive apartments with riverside views, salubrious shops and bijou brasseries; and WHOOSH past the never-again Dickension Limehouse now boasting a marvellous marina; and WHOOSH past the business, banking and communications centre of Canary Wharf; and WHOOSH past the places so exclusive that – only those who reside within know their names.

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Until, there on the right, the palatial maritime buildings of Greenwich are heralded by the masts of the Cutty Sark rising from its glass display cabinet like a life-sized ship in a bottle.

On the over-ground train to Kingston, our cosmopolitan carriage is full of noisy international students on a day trip to see our heritage: they are visiting Primark.

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And Leonie proudly takes mother to see the sights of what is now her city. There on her new doorstep are the Houses of Parliament whilst just round the corner is the Supreme Court where, fortuitously, today is a free entry open-day.

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On to the grandeur of the Foreign and Commonwealth offices, a wave at Horseguards’ Parade, a ridiculously priced bottle of water in St James Park and a wander up to Buck House where news of the infant has already been removed being, as it is, old news.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbD5v2xijqw

Family values

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Two senior ladies, mother and daughter as it happens, are sat in Costa Café wondering why so-called small coffees have arrived in soup tureens.

Older senior lady: there’s absolutely nothing to recommend getting old.

Younger senior lady: well you don’t have all that monthly business and you can’t get pregnant.

Older senior lady: well there’s no sex so it doesn’t make a difference.

Younger senior lady: shall we go and see the penguins then?

DSCF4783There is, after all, something to recommend being aged – you can get into Longleat much cheaper than you could if you were under sixty. And we are here specifically to visit Penguin Island. My mum likes penguins and donkeys so this is a good read for her.

It’s the inaugural day for Penguin Island – the penguins spent last night in their new home acclimatising. Now, they’re standing in a bewildered line staring at their first ever visitors who, in turn, are staring back. The website advert says we’ll be thrilled to see the penguins swimming under our feet through the glass-covered tunnels that lead to the other tank. Because it’s their first day in a new job, the penguins don’t know that the glass-covered tunnels lead anywhere, let alone that they’re supposed to thrill the audience by swimming through them. They’re still staring, mesmerised possibly by the womb music and the disco lighting. It’s nice though. They’re not stressed and neither are we so their probationary appraisal should go well.

DSCF4788On to the second attraction opening today – Stingray Bay. The good thing about coming here in a heat-wave is that hardly anyone else has bothered to make the effort: no crowds and we get to lean over the water and touch these lovely animals (fish?)

I’m not going to give a full account of everything else we did except to say we did do everything else at a pleasing pace: river cruise, jungle train, house, safari park – you name it, we were there. Except for the maze: too hot to get lost in there without supplies. What a treat to be out with my mum with her penguin pick-up stick; doesn’t pick up things very well but then she only bought it to peck at my dad’s nose.

But for something completely different – why not have a daughter who goes on one of those find-your-lost-family-websites? And when you’ve found all the lost family, why not invite them round for the afternoon? So we did. The day after Longleat. Just in case we weren’t tired enough.

No photos here so we can protect the innocent. The problem is identifying the innocent. Obviously all those present are innocent… not their fault they’re related to the guilty. Not their fault that they’re all struggling to remember or explain how they came to be related. Or whether Charlie, who died from the direct hit of a bomb whilst sat in a chair was the same Charlie who’s recorded as being found dead in the street. Or whether said chair was in the same room as his latest trick and child were cowering under a nearby table. And who were they anyway? Must have survived or how would we have known Charlie was in the chair in the first place?

chair

Could this be THE chair? Probably not.

Younger senior lady, who has had a very morally strict upbringing, is somewhat taken aback to learn that everyone was doing it with everyone else, that no-one seems to have been married, or if they were – not to the right people – and can’t understand all the double standards, conflict, compromise and adjustments. Younger senior lady has spoken to several folk at work and discovered that no-one’s grandparents seem to have been married. As for the great-grandparents, well, what a shower. Baby Boomers and children of the sixties, we thought we were the brave new things who invented sex and freedom. Actually, without exception, we were governed by idealistic principles that bear no relation to the reality of our ancestors’ behaviour. We cowered in the invented  fear, disgrace and embarrassment imposed by the last generation but one.

Younger senior lady: you can’t get pregnant

Older senior lady: you can’t have sex.

Phil and Rene

DSCF4616Inspired, perhaps, by Harold Fry, Phil and Rene are walking to London from the depths of Northamptonshire. They’re taking the path that follows the Grand Union Canal for 92 miles. This pair recently celebrated their 64th wedding anniversary so, like their marriage, they’re taking the trip slowly and in stages to make it last.

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Accompanied by three sea bass, a bag of seaweed and two bottles of the red stuff, I went up to see Phil and Rene the other day. They always have plenty of their own red stuff but, living in middle-earth, not much in the way of fresh fish; unless you count Waitrose, which I don’t. During our fishy dinner, I was asked to join them the following day on the next stretch of their unlikely pilgrimage from Stoke Bruerne to Grafton Regis. This was a great privilege, being the first time that they’d allowed a fellow traveller to join them; a dangerous strategy, I fear, given what happened to Harold Fry when other folk hitched a ride on the bandwagon.

Phil and Rene are prepared for the terrain: flask filled with coffee – check; walking boots in the car – check; walking sticks on hand – check; route well-planned – check; pub located at end of stage – CHECK! And off we go.

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I forgot to mention the number of cars involved. We take two cars to the end point of the stage. We leave one car there and all drive back to the beginning of the stage. We do the walk, get in the waiting car, drive back to the other car and everyone drives home. Simples.

They didn’t check the weather but it was ok: no downpours even though they said it was always sunny when they travelled alone. And there were people to talk with and lovely English countryside to enjoy.

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Phil and Rene were lulled into a false sense of security. A veritable horde descended the following day. Wikipedia gives a definition of horde as ‘a socio-political and military structure in nomad cultures such as the Mongols…sometimes from the Caucasus Mountains’. This lot comprised extended family from Dorset. So not much difference then.  And Phil and Rene made the mistake of inviting them on the next stage of the walk that would commence at Grafton Regis.

The socio-political structure from the south had not arrived bearing gifts, it being a Friday which is always a good excuse for forgetting the preceding week and anything they should’ve remembered. Further, they ate no intellectually stimulating fish, but still managed to down sufficient quantities of the red stuff to ensure that eight people felt adequately qualified to offer their opinions on how best to accomplish the task ahead. At the same time as each other.DSCF4652

The first suggestions involved the use of four cars. This was, naturally, deemed ridiculous and the plan was whittled down to three. One bright spark maintained that if we could work out the solution to the conundrum of the man, the chicken, the fox and the corn crossing the river, we would know what to do next. DSCF4653

What we did next was drink some more of the red stuff. Next, it was agreed to take only two cars and split into two splinter groups which would start the walk from opposite ends of the trail. We would pass each other at the half way point, exchange a wave and car keys and drive home in the wrong car. We drank some more of the red stuff. There were other suggestions entailing some people doing the walk and then turning round and walking back again. Others argued that it would be better to walk one way and wait for another group to reappear. Others fell off their chairs. As it happened, we divided into two groups each of whom went for a walk in completely different places from the other and none of whom ever saw a canal. A number of photographs had to be taken to prove everyone was present.

We left on the Sunday. ‘So long, and Thanks for all the fish’, shouted Phil and Rene, unaware of their plagiarism. They were too busy clearing up and planning never to ask for company again.

“There was a point to this story, but it has temporarily escaped the chronicler’s mind.”   Douglas Adams (1984)  So long, and Thanks for all the fish. 

Follow Phil and Rene at http://watman-somewhat.blogspot.co.uk/

French affairs 2012 (what I did on my holiday)

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French kissing in the USA as the song went. But, hang on une minute, I’m in Provence, so French kissing in France then. With a French man. And they don’t come much more French than the rugged Jean-Pierre a la quad bike. Scarily French.

Rewind. I’ve been here a week and I’m off to the airport again, this time to collect a rental car. And frankly, my dear, I DO give a damn and I’m more than a tad nervous. Due to a mix-up, caused by my inability to speak French efficiently sur la telephone, I appear to have a date. At the airport. At exactly the same time that I’m collecting the car with a steering wheel on the wrong side.

Perhaps I’ve misunderstood. I certainly hope so as I like to have time and space to become familiar with a new car without the distraction of someone I may want to see again. Someone who, by the way, doesn’t speak any English.

The coast is clear but as soon as the car rental lady and I exchange Bonjours and psyche ourselves up for the forthcoming transaction, I’m conscious of a presence behind me. As Diana said, apparently believing it to be nothing but rumour, there were three of us in that arrangement. I turn. My God, I’d forgotten how attractive he is. Better not let it show. Although, to be fair, he’s not disguising the fact that I’m being inspected from head to toe. Frenchmen don’t do ‘subtle’.

I can’t tell whether he likes what he sees. I’ve spent hours preparing myself. For him I mean, not the car rental lady. Due to the intense heat, a long, flowing frock and a Cadbury’s Flake was out of the question so I’ve tried to reach a casual compromise: shorts and a tee shirt. One with sleeves of a length sufficient to hide the bingo wings. I’ve rebuilt my face with make-up and a nice pink lipstick and, at the risk of attracting even more bloody mosquito bites, I’ve dabbed a trace of J’adore behind the old ear-lobes.

We kiss – three times in the Provencal manner then he lunges for the lips. I let that one pass as Madame Europecar.co.fr is losing interest in me and eyeing up the next contestant. Jean-Pierre suggests that I do the business and wanders off; but not without trailing a large French hand down most of my body. I knew I should have abandoned my literary pretensions and read Fifty Shades of Grey this summer along with every other woman I know. I might have been more prepared. This is the first date I’ve been on in years and I never anticipated it taking place in an airport lounge. Especially when neither of the parties concerned is either arriving or departing on an aeroplane.

We meet again in the even less romantic airport café for something to drink. Jean-Pierre couldn’t get much closer and every now and then dives forward in another show of affection. Talk about cultural differences. When was the last time an Englishman did all this touchy-feely stuff in public? And I want to be clear here: Jean-Pierre and I are not resuming a past relationship; we were brief acquaintances on a couple of occasions last year. I propose we go outside to find the rental car.

Outside is worse. It’s 41C and he wants to do tongues. I haven’t done tongues in the last decade and never in this sort of heat. I’m English for God’s sake. I’m in France to celebrate my 60th birthday. I’ve just had news of my pension. And I still haven’t located the rental car, let alone ascertained where reverse gear is, which is always my main concern. No good asking this guy – he’s in overdrive. Reverse isn’t a word in his vocabulary.

At my suggestion, we go to my lodgings in Cabannes where Karil can act as chaperone over the artichokes and where those two commence a long conversation about melons. Occasionally, there is a squeezed knee and a pinched cheek. A pinched cheek? What’s that about? Karil disappears into the kitchen. ‘I want to embrace you’, he says. ‘Why?’ I respond. It’s too hot. I’ve lost all sense of normality. I’d forgotten quite how inept I am at this sort of thing. Whatever this sort of thing might be. I keep looking at him out of the corner of my eye. He’s very handsome. But stop pinching my cheek!

He disappears and I learn a lesson: don’t phone a Frenchman and say ‘I’m here’. Maybe we’ll meet again. Maybe not. Que sera and all that jazz. ©

Short

bambouserie 054Monsieur Martin, frequently in a state of semi-undress, drives past Pascale’s house on his tractor most days. He lives down the lane with his short wife, an impressive number of small speckled ponies that are often accompanied by several attendant Little Egrets and a dog that begins to bark every evening just as the aperitif arrives.

The ponies are of a miniature variety; their purpose is unspecified save to make more spotted ponies which can then be sold to someone who may be of restricted growth. And the dog is a nasty but unfortunate creature that belongs to a son who keeps him locked in a shed. Madame Martin never steps outside the front or back doors of the house which her husband constructed for her security. Madame Martin is a recluse: badly treated as a child, she was forced to assume a position of disproportionate responsibility as the bottom prop in a large family of acrobats.

She was rescued by Monsieur Martin who, as a younger man, happened to pass a summer in the big top with a troupe of performing poodles. Madame Martin, despite being afraid of dogs, was, nonetheless, swept off her tiny feet by promises of a new life wherein canvas was replaced by bricks, and poodles substituted with small ponies; in a place where she could get everyone off her back. However, history doesn’t shed its load so easily; which is why, according to Monsieur Martin, his wife spends her hot Provencal days inside the house. Apparently, she passes her time making confiture from the various ingredients which her husband grows in the garden that she only views occasionally through a grimy window.

Madame Martin has a bad back: the weight of her family caused this disability. She finds it difficult to walk and, never a tall woman in the first place, she has, apparently, shrunk in size; and continues to do so. Perhaps marrying a woman who is vertically challenged is what inspired the half-naked, but not unsympathetic, Monsieur Martin to invest in a selection of equally small ponies. Possibly, it was a thoughtful attempt to lessen her feelings of torment caused by a larger world; although why he married such a woman when the only possible benefit was a constant supply of home-made jam is unclear.

When not in the kitchen, Madame Martin likes to watch television, especially with her son, Christophe. The son departs at an early hour to pack potatoes into sacks somewhere or other and returns home to spend the rest of the day indoors watching French TV with his mother. To my mind, there’s not much difference between the entertainment value of a sack of potatoes and French TV, but, each to their own. There’s little in the way of alternative entertainment in the tiny hamlet of Cabannes. Still, it can’t be easy for Monsieur Martin who, having saved his wife from an overbearing family and fulfilling all his promises, has little to shout about apart from a spoonful of home-made Reine Claude every now and then with his breakfast. This is probably why he was so keen on Sophy.

Sophy, who was once Christophe’s girlfriend, also lived down the lane. Monsieur Martin liked her very much in a paternal sort of way. This was largely due to the fact that she didn’t make jam and had no interest in French television; preferring to be outside in the Provencal sunshine with the semi-naked Monsieur Martin, the small speckled ponies and the Little Egrets. Sadly, this happy companionship had no future. Sophy was also shrinking.

It was difficult to say when it began – more a question of Monsieur Martin suddenly noticing one day how much weight Sophy had lost. He sent her off to Noves to see young Doctor Giraud, a man so slight in stature as to seem of little consequence. The good doctor promptly prescribed a course of medication entirely without efficacy. Sophy refused to gain any weight and became smaller and smaller. No amount of Monsieur Martin’s home-grown, oddly shaped, but uniquely tasty tomatoes and aubergines as crooked as a French politician could adequately sustain the young woman. Surprisingly, his enormous courgettes also appeared to be nutritionally deficient. Even the sun-soaked natural sweetness of Madame Martin’s confiture held no obvious redeeming properties. For Monsieur Martin, the situation was une catastrophe: Sophy, who was also shrinking in height, became too tiny to help with the ponies and Monsieur Martin was eventually forced to reduce the herd. In number that is.

For a whole year, under her caring father-in-law’s supervision, Sophy continued to visit Doctor Giraud until, one day, the ever-diminishing young woman disappeared completely. Like Madame Martin, who had yet to vanish into oblivion, Sophy was not seen in public again; her disappearance unnoticed by two of the three who lived down the lane. Unlike Madame Martin, however, she was not ensconced in a darkened kitchen filling pots with jam or hidden away in front of television game shows designed for the small minded: she was recuperating in bed in Noves – with Doctor Giraud.

Gradually, with the kindly doctor’s help, but sadly unknown to Monsieur Martin, Sophy regained her strength and general interest in life. Soon, she was seen out and about in the village; which is more than would ever be said for Madame Martin. One day, Sophy was even spotted jogging down the road to Cabannes where she paused briefly to look with some longing at the remaining small speckled ponies in the field. She didn’t turn down the lane though. That way laid desolation where no-one was on top. Far more fun to be under the doctor. ©